Travelogue: Ireland

Note: I took a two week trip to Ireland, the Netherlands and England.  This post is the first in a short series about where I went, along with observations about how Europe and the UK compare to the US.

My friend Pat and I left from Chicago and flew into Shannon, a town that is pretty much only an airport, on the west coast of Ireland.  We talked to a guy on the plane, Liam, who was from the area who told us that the Shannon airport is a holdover from when planes from North America had to stop on the west coast of Ireland to refuel as they continued on to the rest of Europe.  It really is only an airport in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by green, rolling hills.  Liam told us that the hotel there “is only used by dumb tourists who do not know any better and book on the Internet.”  We thought it was pretty funny and he ended up giving us a ride to our first town, Ennis, about 20 minutes from the airport.  All of the towns we went to had live, traditional Irish music in most of their pubs and Ennis was no exception.

From Ennis, we went north west along the coast toward Doolin, a small town right on the sea.  We spent two days exploring the town, which is about 6 miles from the Cliffs of Moher, one of the most amazing natural wonders of the world.  We biked from Doolin with the plan of going 10k straight up hill to see the cliffs, but we ended up getting lost and biking closer to 20k up, then down then back up again.  It was completely worth it.  It was even more rewarding when we got to the visitors center because we were the only people who had biked to the cliffs.  Everyone else had taken huge buses or cars.  The cliffs themselves are stunning.  If you get a chance to go to the west coast of Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher are a must see.

After Doolin, we took a ferry to the Aran Islands, a group of three small islands that are unique for their rocky terrain and the unbelievable amount of pastures fenced in with stones piled on each other.  About 300 people continue to live on the small island where we stayed, making the time after the last ferry leaves a cross between extreme peacefulness with a bit of an undercurrent of “this would be an amazing place for a horror movie.”

After the Aran Islands, we took another ferry to Galway, Ireland’s artsy, third biggest city.  We happened to be traveling during the Galway Arts Festival, which meant that the entire city was packed with people and just about every bar had live music.  During the second day, we went to a pub to watch a hurling match between Galway and Cork.  We had never seen an entire match before, but we met two locals who explained the game to us and ended up showing us all around the city.  Our Irleand adventure ended the next day when we flew out of Dublin on our way to the Netherlands.

We met some great people in Ireland: Liam (Ireland), Kate (New Jersey), Sarah (Canada), Christine (Canada), Steve (Austrailia) and Jenny (Ireland) in Doolin, Sean and his wife (Ireland),  and Sarah (Ohio) in Galway and a ton more people who were incredibly interesting and fun to hang out with.

In Doolin, one of the people I met asked me why I liked to travel in Europe and if I could see myself living there some day.  I said that I could see myself living in Europe and really enjoying myself, but I could only come up with the food, soccer and a little more laid back lifestyle.  

I continued to think about this conversation and realized that the biggest draw for me to living in Europe is the cities.  The following is an excerpt from what I wrote during our stay in Galway:

There are so many more places in Europe where cities are amazing, fun place to live.  Kids can go to decent schools and there is little crime.  Bars, restaurants, shops and other cultural activities are all within walking distance and if not walking distance, they can be accessed by good, reliable public transportation.  In Europe, most well to do people live in cities, whereas most middle and upper class people in the US move to the suburbs as soon as they have families.  For example, the city center of Paris (and most other European cities) is where the well to do live and the suburbs or the Banlieues, is where the poor and immigrants live.  These areas experience many of the same problems as American central cities, but since they are farther away, they do not gain the same publicity as their American counterparts.

In the US, most families end up moving to the suburbs to avoid crime and find better schools for their kids.  I believe that this process leads to isolation and a focus on work, rather than family and culture.  Many people in the US get up, get in the their cars, go to work, get in their cars and then go home.  They may go days at a time without seeing or talking to anyone who isn’t a family  member or a coworker.

I have a feeling that many in my generation has started to reject McMansions, long commutes and the isolation that this lifestyle can breed.  I think that the biggest obstacle to more people staying is good, quality public schools.  Most people leave cities in the US when they have children because they want to give their children the best education possible and many cities have terrible pubic schools.  I would love to see more livable American cities in my lifetime, but the first step is getting better schools.  I am not optimistic, but am very hopeful that we will see some change in the future.


Comments are closed.